Hose Clamps For Perlin Connectors.
My method of greenhouse construction is very much similar to any other method. Perhaps the single most discussed point and the one that many people find, “well let’s say crude and to some even Mickey Mouse” is the method I use to attach the perlins to the interior hoops (the common stainless steel radiator hose clamp). The very thought of using such a simple devise for this conjours up visions of stone age methods in an era of micro computers. Some just can’t be convinced. A few have snickered.
For hundreds of years and even today, cross lashing construction material, either in one direction or both directions. Specifically bamboo; which is used to this very day. Yes that’s correct, today in modern cities of the Far East it is used for construction scolfaling sometimes several stories high. What appears at first glance in this case to be Mickey Mouse is in fact the oldest method known to man too securely fastening two crossing members, producing a strong, durable and flexible connection.
Some of our customers are totally unaware or simply ignore these facts base on first sight alone. A few will replace this method with a more modern drill and bolt method, more often than not ending in disaster. Drilling holes in any tubing weakens it very much, lashing them does not. Tubing should only be drilled where additional support is present, such as end walls ect. There are clamps available specifically made for connecting perlins to bows, however they tend to be quite expensive and if they ever loosen they cannot be tightened again vs the simple hose clamp does about as good a job as they do and they can be tightened if necessary and are a fraction of the cost.
Attaching Poly Plastic Covering With Staples
While there are surely others, the two most widely used attachment methods are.
#1. Direct staple poly film to the wood bands. This method is best only if the covering is to remain on the greenhouse for the life of the covering, it is extremely strong if attached as we describe and a disaster if not. Stapling the covering in any other manner other than the one we outline in our instructions will usually result in total failure. Some mistakenly believe that if they use a wood batten strip along the edges of the poly, then the poly does need to be folded three or four times along the edges and stapled every three inches. This assumption is incorrect, no amount of batten strips over the poly edges will hold it on the greenhouse unless it is stapled as we outline ”period”.
#2. Use of what is referred to as wiggle wire & channel. This method is best when the poly film is to be replaced every year or two. Many people mistakenly believe that this method will allow them to remove the poly every spring and reinstall it next fall. Fact is that each time the poly is installed and removed, damage occurs to the poly edges were the wiggle wire does the holding, the poly can become so damaged that there is little or no poly for the wiggle wire to hold. It may work one or two seasons and if you are very careful and lucky and the wind does not catch the poly at the most inconvenient moment and rip it, you could get a few more seasons use from it. Wiggle wire is quite expensive and you still have to install the wood bands to the greenhouse to provide a solid surface for the wiggle wire channel to be mounted on. For most but not all home owner applications wiggle wire is not the best choice.
#3. Hoop Greenhouses are by their nature and construction are flexible frames. Therfore only flexible UV rated poly coverings attached at each end and around the bottom should be used, they can be clear, white or any number of solid one peice coverings. As opposed to Lexan/polycorbonate types of coverings which are not flexible and require multiable attachment points to interior hoops, the movement of the frames under wind loads will rip all of the attachment points out.. However Lexan or hard coverings can be use on end wall coverings.
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